El producte ecològic no té per què ser car, però segur que ho és més que un de marca blanca o d’inferior qualitat
Alguna vegada he sentit dir que el menjar ecològic és cosa de pijos, un luxe tan sols accessible als que s’ho poden permetre. No obstant, ¿els aliments ‘bio’ són tan cars com s’afirma? ¿És mpossible menjar ecològic en temps de crisi?
El preu és sovint utilitzat com a argument per justificar la dificultat per accedir a aquest tipus de productes, però no tots els aliments ecològics valen igual ni el conjunt d’establiments els venen al mateix preu. No té res a veure comprar fruita i verdura de temporada amb emportar-se unes salsitxes de tofu o unes cotnes de llenties. El cost de les primeres no té per què ser més car que el d’un aliment equivalent produït en convencional. Mentre que el preu d’un producte ‘bio’ altament processat ens pot incrementar, i molt, el tiquet final de la compra.
El preu d’una dieta saludable
Hi ha productes artesans, com per exemple iogurts, melmelades, sucs… que podem pensar que tenen un import excessiu, però si busquem el seu equivalent en qualitat al súper, encara que no porti l’etiqueta d’ecològic, el seu valor no serà gaire diferent. Un altre factor a tenir en compte és el lloc de compra.
Hi ha supermercats ‘bio’ i botigues gurmet que es dirigeixen a un públic amb un alt poder adquisitiu i això es reflecteix en la factura, però altres botigues de barri poden tenir uns preus més ajustats, en especial en els productes frescos. També és possible adquirir fruita i verdura directament a l’agricultor, en mercats de pagès, de manera que evitarem intermediaris. I si obtenim els productes en un grup o cooperativa de consum, que funciona amb treball voluntari i compra a diversos pagesos, el seu preu serà més reduït.
Hi ha barris on hi ha botigues ‘bio’ a cada cantonada, mentre que en altres gairebé no n’hi trobem cap, i no és casualitat. El producte ecològic no té per què ser car, però segur que ho és més que un de marca blanca o d’inferior qualitat. ¿Quants tomàquets tenen avui dia gust de tomàquet? Si algú no arriba a final de mes, i a penes pot pagar la llum i el lloguer de la vivenda, no podrà comprar un producte ‘bio’ però tampoc mantenir una dieta saludable. Els estrats socials més baixos i els que pateixen més dificultats econòmiques són aquells que mengen pitjor.
L’altre problema és que hem desaprès a menjar i a valorar nutricionalment el que ens posem a la boca. Potser podríem estalviar menjant bé, però ¿qui sap fer-ho? No dubtem a pagar el que sigui per un mòbil d’última generació o a canviar-nos la roba cada temporada, però pensem que potser «gastem» massa en menjar. El cert és que comprar aliments ecològics i de qualitat és una inversió en salut, però la majoria no ho veu així. De fet, la nostra classe social determina el que mengem. El perfil del consumidor ‘bio’ és una persona amb estudis superiors, que es cuida i s’informa del que compra.
Democratització i transformació
Amb l’arribada del producte ecològic a la gran distribució, alguns parlen de «democratització» del sector, a l’oferir aquests articles a un preu inferior, a partir de la gestió de grans quantitats. No obstant, quan parlem d’aliments ‘bio’ crec que hem d’anar més enllà de l’etiqueta. El seu valor no s’hauria de limitar al fet de no contenir pesticides químics de síntesi sinó a la seva capacitat de transformar el model agroindustrial dominant, i apostar per una producció, una distribució i un consum més just des d’un punt de vista mediambiental i social. Això significa que, a més de ser ‘bio’, sigui local, pagès, que respecti unes condicions de treball dignes i per a aquells aliments que venen de lluny com el cacau, el cafè… que sigui de comerç just.
La democratització del producte ‘bio’ difícilment arribarà amb la seva comercialització a través del supermercat, la gran distribució no és motor de canvi ni de justícia. Al contrari, els seus ingents beneficis es basen en l’explotació camperola, l’abús mediambiental, la injustícia comercial i el treball precari.
Fer accessible el producte ecològic a la majoria passa per la implicació activa de l’administració. Amb el consum ecològic hi guanyem tots: la nostra salut, el planeta, l’economia local, la pagesia. Per això les institucions públiques han d’assumir responsabilitats, recolzant el sector, i facilitant la seva producció i distribució, incorporant als seus menjadors aquest producte, sancionant les males pràctiques de l’agroindústria i els supermercats i proporcionant des de l’escola una educació nutricional de la qual estem mancats.
El menjar ‘bio’ no és cosa de pijos és cosa de tothom.
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