Una mezcla de pobreza, tradición y explotación impide que el Gobierno senegalés acabe con la mendicidad infantil en la que se encuentran atrapados unos 50.000 menores
Es de noche. Hace un frío negro, de ese que se cuela entre las rendijas del alma. En la estación de transportes de Saint Louis (Senegal), los últimos viajeros del día esperan su autobús aferrados al calor mínimo de un vaso de café. Bajo el mostrador de una tiendita de juguetes, refrescos y golosinas asoma un pequeño bulto humano. Es Omar, de unos diez años, que dormita acurrucado en su propia camiseta de rayas negras, vencido por el cansancio. Todos lo miran, nadie lo ve. Como él, unos 10.000 niños vagabundean cada día en busca de limosna por las calles de esta ciudad, atrapados en una espiral de tradición, pobreza y la más cruda explotación infantil que para Senegal, un país tolerante, estable y en crecimiento, representa una vergüenza internacional y uno de sus grandes desafíos.
Modou Samb y Samba Ndong se acercan, lo despiertan con suavidad, le dicen que no es seguro estar ahí, que vaya con ellos. Omar asoma la cabecita y los observa, entre dormido y sorprendido. Su primera reacción es huir, asustado, pero escucha lo que le dicen. Le hablan de una cama, de una ducha, de ropa nueva. Sobre todo, de una noche de tregua. ¿Cómo resistirse tras una semana de vagar sin rumbo, de refugiarse en cualquier rincón? Acepta y emprende el camino hacia la Casa de la Estación, una organización social que cuenta con un albergue de emergencia para casos como este.
Cabizbajo, aterido, confuso, Omar camina entre sus rescatadores, tres figuras que se recortan en la oscuridad de la noche entre los desvencijados puestos de la estación. El niño apenas habla, sólo musita algunas palabras en voz baja. Cuenta que procede de Keur Momar Sarr, un pequeño pueblo de Louga, que lleva una semana fugado de su daara (escuela coránica), en la que ha permanecido durante cinco años, que huyó porque el maestro le pegó por llegar tarde un día y que ahora gana unas míseras monedas conduciendo una carreta en la estación. Al llegar, lo acuestan en una litera y lo cubren con una manta. Techo y un poco de cariño, al fin y al cabo.
En Senegal hay unos 50.000 niños mendigos. Proceden de pueblos del interior o de países vecinos como Gambia y Guinea Bissau, enviados por sus padres a la ciudad para estudiar en escuelas coránicas donde les obligan a pedir dinero por las calles. Lo que un día fue un sistema de aprendizaje del Corán se ha convertido hoy en explotación pura y dura. Aunque en no todas las escuelas coránicas se fomenta la mendicidad, la realidad es difícil de esconder: los talibés son la columna vertebral de ese ejército de pequeños mendicantes que recorre a diario las ciudades senegalesas y el dinero que recaudan sostiene a sus explotadores, marabúes sin escrúpulos que se aprovechan de la pobreza y el analfabetismo de las familias rurales que los dejan en sus manos.
Apenas despunta el alba, mientras Omar disfruta del calor de su inesperada cama, miles de niños sucios y vestidos con harapos se echan a las calles con sus botes de plástico o sus latas vacías de tomate frito. Sólo en Saint Louis hay 15.000 talibés, de los que unos 10.000 son obligados a mendigar a diario. Si no cumplen con su cuota diaria, unos 20 céntimos de euro, o si no se aprenden la lección, se exponen a castigos corporales y malos tratos. Cada día, decenas intentan escapar de sus maltratadores, que en ocasiones los encierran o encadenan con grilletes para impedirlo.
La daara Cheikh Amadou Bamba, situada en el barrio de Pikine, es en realidad un solar amurallado y a cielo abierto en el que se hacina un centenar de niños venidos desde el pueblo de Dahra Jollof, en Louga. En una esquina, los pequeños hacen sus necesidades sobre la arena; en la otra, un tinglado de madera cubierto con telas y chapas rotas pretende protegerles del sol; en medio, un pequeño agujero en la tierra ofrece un agua fétida con la que… ¿lavarse? Los niños han pasado una nueva noche a la intemperie, amontonados sobre una alfombra y mal tapados con una mugrienta colcha que no alcanza para todos, porque la arena bajo el tinglado está infestada de pulgas.
Al frente de esta daara está Samba Saw, un marabú nacido en Touba que explica sin ningún problema el horario de la escuela. Al salir el sol, mendicidad para el desayuno; entre las ocho y la una y media, Corán; a las 13.30, mendicidad para comer; entre las dos y las siete de la tarde, más Corán; a las 19.00 horas, de nuevo mendicidad. “Hay tres tipos de seres humanos”, asegura Saw, “las personas mayores, a las que debes respeto por su edad, aquellos que son de tu generación a los que también debes respeto como iguales y, finalmente, los más pequeños y débiles, de los que hay que sentir compasión. Este es el saber de Dios que nos enseña el camino de la misericordia”. Los talibés mayores llevan fustas en la mano. “Hay dos métodos de enseñanza”, explica Saw, “el normal, que es duro, y luego está el otro, que es más duro aún, y se reserva para los que no quieren aprender”. Y sonríe.
En la Casa de la Estación, Omar se despereza tras haber pasado su primera noche bajo techo en la última semana. Modou entra en la habitación, lo despabila y lo viste con ropa nueva. Por fuera parece otro, pero la sombra del miedo y de la tristeza sigue ahí. Thiéck Aw, trabajadora social, le entrevista. Quiere saber por qué huyó de la daara. Hay que tomar una decisión. “No podemos dejarlo en la calle y si lo llevamos a su pueblo lo más probable es que en tres días esté de nuevo aquí. En este caso no vemos evidencias de castigos corporales ni malos tratos. Pensamos que lo mejor es llevarlo con su marabú y hacer un seguimiento del caso para evitar que vuelva a ocurrir. No es bueno para él seguir en la estación de transportes”, asegura Modou. “Allí pasan cosas malas”.
De vuelta a Pikine, el maestro coránico Thierno Sadibou se hace cargo del chaval. “Nosotros no pegamos a los niños”, asegura. Samba y Modou hablan con él y le advierten de que pasarán cada semana, y que si aprecian cualquier señal de violencia será denunciado. En los últimos años, el equipo de la Casa de la Estación ha logrado el cierre de siete daaras que no reunían las condiciones mínimas y ha llevado a cuatro marabúes a prisión. La mayoría colaboran, pero algunos se resisten. Por la tarde, Modou y Samba reciben un aviso desde la estación de transportes: “Doce niños se han escapado de su daara y están tratando de coger un autobús hacia Gambia”, dice una voz al otro lado del teléfono. Rápidamente se dirigen hacia allí con la intención de recogerlos.
Desde 2005 existe una ley que prohíbe la mendicidad infantil en Senegal, pero ni se cumple ni se aplica. La falta de regulación de las daaras, que surgen por doquier y sin ningún tipo de control, y la conversión de este sistema tradicional de enseñanza en un lucrativo negocio no ayuda a mejorar las cosas. El Gobierno senegalés ha anunciado en varias ocasiones la adopción de medidas contundentes para acabar con la mendicidad y con las escuelas que no cumplan con los mínimos requisitos. Sin embargo, poco se ha hecho. Ante las presiones de organismos internacionales y ONGs senegalesas, el pasado 30 de junio, el presidente Macky Sall ordenaba la retirada de todos los niños de las calles de Dakar, medida más de cara a la galería que efectiva mientras no se regulen las daaras y se persiga a quienes obligan a los niños a practicar la mendicidad.
A esta hora de la tarde, la estación de transportes de Saint Louis es un hervidero de talibés. El rostro sucísimo, blanqueado por el polvo de la calle, mal vestidos, descalzos, siempre hambrientos, con su eterna lata de tomate en la mano, se acercan a los viajeros a la espera de que caiga alguna moneda. Allí están los doce fugados. Sin embargo, ocurre algo imprevisto. Aparece Ibrahima Ba, su marabú, quien también pretende llevarlos consigo. Los niños tratan de huir en estampida, pero Modou, Samba y el mediador comunitario Abdou Sy localizan a siete de ellos y, tras vencer la resistencia del maestro coránico, los suben en dos taxis rumbo a la Casa de la Estación.
Los niños, de unos diez años de edad, relatan que el marabú les exige la enorme cantidad de 500 francos CFA cada día, unos 75 céntimos, como aportación para la escuela y que les pega si no los consiguen. Hartos del maltrato, habían diseñado todo un plan de fuga. Poco a poco, día tras día, habían ido entregando a un tendero el dinero que conseguían para que este se lo guardara lejos del alcance del maestro. Así habían llegado a reunir unos 17 euros, con lo que pretendían pagarse el billete de autobús de vuelta a casa en Tabokoto (Gambia). Pero el plan se les vino abajo porque el dinero no les daba y porque alguien avisó al marabú de la jugada cuando los vieron en la estación.
El problema de fondo es que el Gobierno no tiene el coraje político de enfrentarse al poder religioso, que sigue ejerciendo una enorme influencia en este país. La buena noticia, sin embargo, es que la sociedad senegalesa está reaccionando. La existencia de plataformas que denuncian, un día sí y otro también, la existencia de niños mendigos y de violencia contra ellos está propiciando un cambio de mentalidad del que instituciones como la Casa de la Estación no son sino una muestra.
Los siete pequeños fugitivos, Thierno Cissé, Amadou Ba, Alassane Cissé, Aliou Ba, Mamadou Cissé, Yussuf Ba e Ibrahima Ba, observan todo con cara de asombro en la Casa de la Estación. “¿Vamos a dormir aquí?”, pregunta Yussuf con una mueca de esperanza. Esta noche sí, le responden. Aunque el marabú se presenta para llevarlos consigo, los niños pasan sus primeras horas en el albergue. Al día siguiente, maestro y talibés deben presentarse en la Agencia de Educación en Medio Abierto (AEMO, según sus siglas en francés), la entidad gubernamental que vela por la seguridad y el bienestar de los menores. A ellos corresponde la decisión final.
En la oficina pública, el marabú está que trina. Una funcionaria le advierte de que son su responsabilidad y de que si los niños se vuelven a escapar irá tres meses a prisión. Ibrahima Ba jura y perjura que nunca les ha levantado la mano, pero nadie se fía. “Los padres están lejos, tú debes cuidarlos”, le explica con infinita paciencia la señora Mbaye de la AEMO. “Y si me entero que maltratas a solo uno de tus talibés, también irás a la cárcel”, añade. Se decide que vuelvan a la daara. “Nosotros nos vamos a encargar de hacer el seguimiento”, dice Modou. “Ahora el marabú tiene miedo y ha empezado a entender lo que le puede ocurrir”.
Aissetou Kanté, magistrada senegalesa experta en Familia e Infancia, asegura que la ley presenta una fisura y es que no actúa contra quienes la fomentan, lo que ella denomina “falsos marabúes”, hasta que se llega a una situación extrema. Opina que hay que proteger al niño. «Y para eso tenemos que ir a la raíz. El Estado es responsable, pero también el entorno social, los padres, los líderes religiosos”. El debate se ha instalado en los medios de comunicación y en una sociedad que se pregunta cuándo aprenden algo esos niños que están todo el día en la calle. Mientras tanto, ajenos a la discusión, los talibés y sus eternas latas de tomate siguen siendo parte del paisaje, omnipresentes y a la vez invisibles, el rostro en harapos y más descarnado de un Senegal cambiante pero aún anclado en su propia historia.(Fuente: El País)
CALOR Y REFUGIO EN LA CASA DE LA ESTACIÓN
Hace diez años, Issa Kouyaté trabajaba como cocinero en un famoso hotel de Saint Louis. Pese a haber nacido en Dakar, pese a ser senegalés, el drama de los talibés en esta ciudad le impactó. “Da igual donde vayas, da igual hacia donde mires, están por todos lados. Así que decidí hacer algo. En el hotel teníamos que tirar la comida que no se usaba en 48 horas, así que la cogía y la llevaba a los chicos que se habían escapado de las daaras, que se reunían en la antigua estación de tren por la noche para dormir”, recuerda Kouyaté. Sin embargo, en 2010, el Ayuntamiento decidió convertir la estación en el actual mercado y los niños se quedaron sin su refugio nocturno. En ese momento de oscuridad, en un terreno cercano, el proyecto de la Casa de la Estación empezó a tener luz propia.
“Era un vertedero lleno de basura”, prosigue Kouyaté, “pero trabajamos duro y lo hemos convertido en un hogar”. Hoy, la Casa de la Estación cuenta con dos aulas para las clases de alfabetización, una enfermería, duchas y baños para los chavales, una biblioteca, un amplio espacio de juegos, un albergue de emergencia con ocho camas, el apoyo de organismos internacionales como el Fondo Global para los Niños de Naciones Unidas y, sobre todo, el empuje y la ilusión de decenas de voluntarios. El pasado año, Kouyaté recibió de manos del ex secretario de Estado estadounidense John Kerry el premio Héroe de la lucha contra la trata de personas concedido por el Gobierno americano, pero el frío, el hambre y las penurias que sufren los pequeños talibés de Saint Louis siguen presentes.
La Casa de la Estación es un refugio, un lugar seguro, un espacio donde los niños encuentran todo aquello que no tienen. Abdourahmane Soumaré, profesor y animador, enseña tanto nociones de informática o alfabetización como kárate sobre la arena. Mientras tanto, la enfermera Awa Diallo cura las heridas visibles de los niños, las invisibles ya son otra cosa, sobre todo quemaduras y cortes, y tratamientos contra la sarna. Un par de noches en semana, Abdou Sy, Modou Samb y Samba Ndong, a veces con el mismo Issa Kouyaté al frente, se encargan de las rondas de noche. Buscan niños perdidos en cada rincón, debajo de cada cayuco, entre los puestos callejeros, pegados a los pilares de los puentes, bajo los balcones y sobre las alfombras abandonadas de los rezos esporádicos.
“Lo más triste es que una parte de la sociedad se aprovecha de ellos, los usan como mano de obra barata, para hacer recados, conducir una carreta o limpiar”, añade Kouyaté. “Cuando te paras al lado de un talibé y te interesas por él, la gente te mira sorprendida. Es como si no existieran, como si fueran objetos. Sabemos que nadamos contra corriente, que nos enfrentamos a un poder muy fuerte: nos han amenazado, nos han enviado a la Policía, tratan de ponernos en contra de la gente. Pero creemos que estamos cambiando las cosas sólo porque estos niños han entendido que hay una vida más allá de lo que dicen sus marabúes”.
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