Acaba de publicarse la 3a edición de “El negocio de la comida. ¿Quién controla nuestra alimentación?” (Icaria editorial), un libro que desenmascara la cara oscura del actual modelo agroalimentario y pone nombres y apellidos a aquellos que deciden cómo y qué comemos. La periodista Esther Vivas, con una larga trayectoria de investigación en este campo, es la autora de esta obra necesaria. Ahora, se publica una nueva edición más completa.
-¿Qué podemos encontrar en esta edición más actualizada?
-Hay nuevos textos, como el que señala los impactos que tendría el Tratado de Libre Comercio entre Estados Unidos y la Unión Europea (el TTIP, por sus siglas en inglés) en nuestro plato de llegarse a aprobar: más transgénicos, carne con hormonas y pollos «desinfectados» con lejía. Muchos datos actualizados y un prólogo que reflexiona sobre la alimentación del futuro.
-¿Qué acogida ha tenido tu obra?
-Estoy muy contenta. Cuando el libro salió, dos años y medio atrás, tuvo una buenísima acogida. En poco tiempo, lanzamos una segunda edición, y fueron muchos los comentarios y aportaciones que recibí vía redes sociales.
POLÍTICAS AGRÍCOLAS
-¿Qué problemática nos encontramos con las políticas agrícolas y alimentarias a nivel mundial?
-Señalaría principalmente dos. La primera, que los alimentos se han convertido en objeto de negocio por parte de grandes empresas de la agroindustria y la distribución, que se han enriquecido a costa de acabar con el campesinado, contaminar el medio ambiente, enfermarnos y generar hambre en un mundo de la abundancia de comida. Segundo, que hemos perdido la capacidad de decidir sobre qué se cultiva y se come. Nos han arrebatado nuestra soberanía alimentaria.
-¿Cuáles son las principales causas del hambre en el mundo?
-Se produce para ganar dinero, no para alimentar a las personas. Es la lógica del capitalismo agroalimentario. Hay alimentos suficientes para dar de comer a 12 mil millones de personas, según datos del relator especial de las Naciones Unidas sobre el Derecho a la Alimentación; en el planeta somos 7 mil millones y aun así 1 de cada 9 personas pasa hambre. Un sinsentido. Se especula con las materias primas, se deslocaliza la producción y los alimentos viajan miles de kilómetros antes de llegar a su destino, por solo citar un par de ejemplos.
LA SALUD
-¿Qué sucede con nuestra salud y con los alimentos convencionales de consumo y la globalización de los alimentos?
-Nos enfermamos. La dieta occidental que se ha globalizado, con alimentos muy procesados, ingentes cantidades de carne, grasas saturadas y azúcares añadidos, ha dado lugar a un aumento muy importante del sobrepeso y la obesidad, con las consiguientes enfermedades asociadas como la diabetes, las cardiopatías isquémicas, los trastornos del aparato locomotor y algunos cánceres. Nuestra mala salud acaba siendo su negocio, tanto para las empresas de la agroindustria como para las farmacéuticas.
-¿Qué soluciones respecto a este tema podemos encontrar en tu libro?
-Tomar conciencia del problema y apostar por la agricultura y la alimentación ecológica. Aunque no nos podemos quedar solo en la etiqueta. ¿Qué sentido tendría comer unas manzanas de Chile o Estados Unidos por más certificación “bio” que tengan si en Cataluña y Aragón tenemos una producción buenísima? Hay que ir más allá. Así, junto a la alimentación orgánica, es necesario sumarle el componente local y campesino, y para los alimentos que aquí no se pueden cultivar, como el café, el comercio justo es la mejor opción.
EMPRESAS DISFRAZADAS DE VERDE
-¿Hablas en esta obra sobre el problema de las empresas disfrazadas de verde?
-Sí. Un caso son los supermercados que venden alimentos ecológicos. Es una manera de lavarse la imagen y dar respuesta a un nicho de mercado creciente. Pero el modus operandi de la gran distribución se basa en unos mecanismos de producción y distribución extremadamente injustos que nada tienen que ver con la justicia social y medioambiental que sí reclama la producción agroecológica.
-¿Por qué hay políticas o publicidad que descalifican constantemente la producción ecológica en alimentación?
-La agricultura y la alimentación ecológica amenazan los intereses de la agroindustria al plantear un modelo de producción, distribución y consumo de alimentos antagónico al dominante. De aquí que estás grandes multinacionales intenten o bien desprestigiar esta alternativa o apropiarse de ella vaciándola de su sentido transformador.
CONSUMO RESPONSABLE
-¿Cómo se debería afrontar un consumo responsable?
-Siendo muy conscientes de que la coherencia absoluta no existe. Alguien será muy coherente comprando alimentos ecológicos pero tendrá sus ahorros en un gran banco, mientras otro optará por la banca ética y comprará comida convencional en un súper. Lo más importante es preguntarnos qué hay detrás de nuestro consumo cotidiano, buscar respuestas e intentar llevar a la práctica estas alternativas.
-¿Qué te parece el hecho de que los alimentos ecológicos ya estén en las grandes superficies?
-Es una manera de que lo ecológico llegue a más personas, pero ¿es este un consumo crítico y transformador? Creo que no. Y lo más importante: los alimentos ecológicos distribuidos en los supermercados pueden reproducir fácilmente el mismo modelo agroindustrial que tanto criticamos: alimentos kilométricos, salarios de miseria, dependencia del productor respecto a la gran distribución, monocultivos… Eso sí, con la etiqueta “bio”.
NUEVAS OBRAS
-¿Qué nuevos libros preparas?
-En los últimos años, y a raíz de mi maternidad, he empezado a escribir sobre todo aquello que tiene que ver con el embarazo, el parto y la crianza. El capitalismo y el patriarcado nos han robado a las mujeres la capacidad de decidir cómo queremos parir y criar. Creo que es fundamental reivindicar este derecho, destapar toda la violencia que existe en el parto, y que a veces ni siquiera es reconocida como tal, y visibilizar las maternidades en plural. En esas estoy también trabajando ahora.
Sara B. Peña
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