¿Què menjarem en el futur? ¿Qui produirà els aliments? ¿Com alimentar un planeta on es calcula que, l’any 2050, hi haurà més de 10 mil milions de persones? La indústria biotecnològica té la resposta en la carn artificial i els aliments trans-gènics, ¿però què hi diuen els que reivindiquen una alimentació local, ecològica i pagesa?
La ciència-ficció des de fa anys ha donat resposta a aquestes preguntes. Tant pel·lícules com còmics o novel·les d’aquest gènere han apuntat que el dia de demà ens alimentaríem a base de pastilles. La pel·lícula Just imagine de David Butler (1930) n’és un bon exemple: un home dels anys 30 viatja a la societat del futur i descobreix com l’alimentació ha quedat reduïda a prendre una sola píndola. Si vols un bistec i unes patates, només ho has d’encarregar a una màquina expenedora i t’ho serveix a l’instant. Per sort, no hem arribat a aquest punt, sinó tot el que ens perdríem de sabors, olors i textures, però en part no s’anava tan desencaminat ja que els complements alimentosos, comercialitzats amb càpsules, van en aquesta direcció.
De totes maneres, la resposta a què menjarem d’aquí a uns anys rau en el que passi d’ara endavant. Avui, hi ha dos models en conflicte que apunten a dos futurs possibles: un, el que defensa la indústria agroalimentària i biotecnològica, amb una producció agrària intensiva, aliments quilomètrics i homogenis, productes altament processats, tecnologia transgènica, deixant en mans d’unes poques empreses què i com es produeix. En oposició, hi ha l’aposta de moviments de consumidors i pagesos en defensa de la sobirania alimentària, que reivindiquen una agricultura i una alimentació local, ecològica i pagesa. Dos models en col·lisió, on actualment el primer s’imposa per sobre del segon, al comptar amb el suport actiu de governs i institucions internacionals.
La pregunta que cal fer-se és: ¿aquest model d’agricultura industrial que afirma poder alimentar la societat futura funciona? Si mirem les dades, sembla que no, ja que, com indicava el relator especial de les Nacions Unides pel Dret a l’Alimentació Jean Ziegler, es produeix menjar per a 12 mil milions de persones a escala global però, paradoxalment, un de cada nou individus passa gana. La fam mostra el fracàs del model agroalimentari dominant, on un de cada tres aliments produïts al món es malbarata en el seu trajecte del camp al plat. Si aquest sistema és avui incapaç d’alimentar satisfactòriament les persones, ¿com pot fer front als ingents reptes alimentaris del demà?
Per a la indústria biotecnològica, un dels productes estrella en l’alimentació del futur serà la carn artificial. Són diverses les companyies que competeixen per ser els primers de produir una hamburguesa, una mandonguilla o una salsitxa elaborada íntegrament en un laboratori, aillant cèl·lules mare de vaca o de porc i desenvolupant-les en bioreactors. Altres empreses aposten per produir massivament insectes en granges de larves i cucs. Però, ¿ens cal? Els que ho defensen asseguren que és la solució per acabar amb la fam.
Crec que el diagnòstic del qual parteixen és erroni. No ens calen nous aliments sintètics ni augmentar exponencialment la producció, el que és necessari és fer accessible a les persones el menjar que ja existeix, que els aliments deixin de ser tractats com una mercaderia i que siguin considerats un bé comú i de primera necessitat. Seguir donant respostes tecnològiques a problemes polítics ja veiem on ens ha portat, al fracàs més absolut.
¿Quina és l’alternativa? Aquells que defensem la sobirania alimentària ho tenim clar: recuperar el menjar de veritat, apostar per una agricultura local i de proximitat, en mans de la pagesia, que beneficia l’economia de la comunitat, amb un model de producció ecològic, que cuida la terra i els que la treballen. Els seus detractors afirmen que així és impossible alimentar un planeta amb milers de milions de persones, però segons diversos estudis científics i la mateixa FAO, l’agricultura ecològica i de proximitat pot garantir millor l’alimentació de les persones que l’agricultura industrial i el lliure comerç, això sí: amb una reducció de l’actual i insostenible consum de carn a escala mundial. Per cert, amb una carn de mala qualitat i una indústria ramadera que maltracta sistemàticament els animals i precaritza els drets dels treballadors.
En definitiva, ens cal una agricultura que posi al centre les necessitats de les persones i la cura del planeta, només així en el futur podrem menjar tots i menjar bé.
Esther Vivas, periodista. Autoriza a Safor Press su publicación
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